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We often avoid populated areas while cruising but clearly they are useful and even fun to visit. Loreto is a lovely town with historic buildings and shops full of colourful Mexican handicrafts. The town has the feel of quaint friendly touristy rather than the harsh commercialism and towering buildings that are in places like Cancún.
With full tummies, souvenirs, fresh provisions, and clean laundry in hand, we bid farewell to Loreto and their whale shark (we're still hoping to see a real one). |
North of Loreto by about 60 miles is Bahia Concepción, a 25 mile long bay containing smaller bay appendages within. In these, varying degrees and types of habitation line the beaches and each cove has a different assortment of tents, RVs, palapas, and houses. The fanciness and quantity of abodes seems approximately proportional to proximity to Highway 1, which parallels the coast for a fair distance. A few coves harbour restuarants and Playa Coyote has a small store. Many cruisers hitchhike into Mulegé (12 miles north) for access to a better assortment of supplies but, as we had topped up in Loreto, we found this tienda met our needs/wants for a few fresh things and inexpensive Mexican rum. The sound of airbrakes periodically shatters the peace as transport trucks navigate the hills of Highyway 1. There is no cellphone coverage in these areas, but we accessed WiFi now and again at Ana's restaurant on Playa Santispac.
This beach boasts the largest anchorage and longest stretch of sand, and gets quite crowded at holiday times (more on this in the Semana Santos section below). The banner photo at the top of this page is of this beach.
During the season when RVers and cruisers are prevalent, we've been told a routine emerges at Playa Santispac, with glow-in-the-dark bocci ball on Thursdays, 2-for-1 margaritas on Tuesdays, and the popular fruits-and-vegetables truck on Fridays. We arrived around the tail end of this season so there wasn't enough business for the veggie truck to show, and we did not seek out the beach games, but as you may guess, we did partake of the Happy Hour margarita special, seeing it as a cultural experience. Actually, most of the people there were gringos but we did enjoy the local band.
The population on the beaches of Bahia Concepción (and elsewhere, we hear) changes dramatically during Semana Santos (Week of the Saints), the week leading up to Easter. We anchor off the most populated beach (Playa Santispac) for two reasons - mainly it has the best protection from the expected strong winds, but also there is some curiousity about the festivities for this week. Many Mexican families flock to the beaches for camping and water sports. Tents are tightly packed. The noise level rises drastically and includes excited squeals of kids in water, lively music, loud dune buggies, and water crafts zipping around. While we don't begrudge the fun they are having, the jet skiis circling repeatedly and unnecessarily close to our boat are rather aggravating and certainly discourage swimming. It might explain why there are fewer cruisers in the bay, or perhaps many have simply started heading for home at the approach of tax time. We become very familiar with the jaunty tune of the ice cream truck that slowly cruises the strand. At night the small midway revs up with loud music, colourful lights and screams from upside-down people. |
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Gentle moonlight provides good visibility on the evening we paddle into shore, but our night vision takes a hit from the the midway lights. We make our way through the tents to the fair, squinting until our eyes adapt. It doesn't take long to scope out the 11 rides and 4 games but it provides some entertainment. We are especially amused by a toddler trying, unsuccessfully, to join in the game of spraying aerosol foam at people. His sweeping arm movements copy that of his older siblings but he hasn't yet figured out about the button on top of the can. He seems perplexed that nothing is squirting out. Happily (though not healthily) we are able to get our favourite Mexican fast food - tosti elotes and churros (first tried at Carnaval in La Paz. Recipe here). We munch on our warm deep fried treat and wander along the beach past many families sitting around campfires. We hear lots of conversation, recorded music and laughter but we don't notice campfire songs. Back on the boat, the music from shore becomes background noise and does not interfere with our sleep. |
Lighter winds allow us to relocate the next day to El Burro Cove. If there had been any hope that it was quieter here, it is drowned out quickly by beach parties and motorized craft. Later, folks on shore who were watching while we anchored offer us amused sympathy about the lack of mercy on the part of the jet skiiers. We're always happy to provide entertainment for the locals.