S/V Hoku Pa'a Photos - Samoa, November 2005

...click on the small photos for larger versions...

Western Samoa has two main islands, Upolu and Savai'i. Apia (on Upolu) is prettily nestled at the base of very green hills.	One morning an echoing thump-thump-thump drum tempo rang out over the harbour as 44 glistening bodies glided by. The rowers were colourfully dressed up and the person steering at the stern wore a flamboyant headdress.	We toured the south side of Upolu and passed many waterfalls. The jungle appears so dense that hiking to the fall didn't seem possible.
For those who wondered what Kava looks like, to recognize it in your garden, here it is. The dried and pounded root is mixed with water for the traditional S. Pacific drink.	Cinnamon trees also grow in Samoa. I crushed a leaf, and it had a wonderfully strong cinnamon scent.	And here's a young cocoa tree. The Apia market sold small bricks of cocoa, which looked and tasted like unsweetened chocolate.
Our Upolu tour included this Baha'i House of Worship. Only seven temples in the world serve the widespread community of over 5 million Baha'is. Like the other temples, this peaceful building has nine entrances.	The Baha'i temple in Samoa is the most recently opened one, and has magnificent landscaping.	On the south-eastern tip of Upolu is a fine beach. The Lalomanu beachfront is lined with small fales that one can rent for the night, cheaply.
Not all the contents of one's groceries are listed on the outside of the bag.	Colourful local buses and taxis ran everywhere, and were inexpensive. Often, loud music propelled the buses along in style. A flame-tree's orange blossoms are in the foreground.	Robert Louis Stevenson (author of Dr. Jeckyll & Mr. Hyde, Tales of the South Seas, many others) lived with his family in Samoa. His home was used as the Governor's Residence and is now a museum. Barb stands on the porch.
RLS's two-story home is filled with period items, including this Roller Organ. A hand cranked bellows plays notes selected by a turning drum, much like a music box. The mansion built in 1889 includes two non-functional fireplaces, included for their ambiance.	RLS, called Tusitala (teller of tales) by Samoans, was very well-regarded. On his death in 1894, mourners lined the path up this hill overlooking Vailima and passed his coffin up by hand. His wife Fanny moved to California, but after her death in 1914 her ashes were brought here.	Just in case anyone thinks the cruising lifestyle has permanently changed Bj...
We went to a floor show and dinner at Aggie Grey's Hotel in Apia, and had great fun watching traditional dancing while raiding the dessert table. Drinks were a tad pricey: $ST5 for a Coke, $ST25 for a Pina Colada.	Siva Afi or Fire-Knife dancing, is claimed to have developed in Samoa. We watched some young kids learning the moves with padded sticks. Originally used in battles, the fire-knives are now part of a skillful dance.	Here's one of the performers spinning the fire-knife to the fast tempo of the drummers. Fire-Knives have a hooked blade at one end, and flaming rags on both ends.
This performer amazed us by keeping two fire-knives twirling!	A great beat for these performances was pounded out on a drum set that included two empty biscuit tins. The sound was a bit reminiscent of steel-drums.	Barb wishes a farewell to Samoa as we prepare to sail north.

S/V Hoku Pa'a 1000 DeCosta Pl. Victoria, BC Canada  V9A 6Y3

Go Back to Homepage